Teaching Your Dog to Come

First, read this about getting your dog's attention! Your dog should WANT to come when called because it is rewarding and satisfying for him. Most dogs will come when there's no distractions, especially if you are in the kitchen and they think food might be involved. However you probably want your dog to come to you no matter what. If your dog rarely leaves the confines of your home and yard, having a good recall won't really be a big issue. Except if your dog blows you off unless he's being called for food or treats, you might want to fix the relationship because this doesn't indicate a very good owner-dog bond.

Ask yourself, when do you call your dog to you. Is it only to come inside when he's out having fun in the yard? Do you call him to go in his crate for the day? When he's offleash at the dog park and you are calling him to put on his leash and leave? Naturally you want him to come to you no matter what. But make sure most of the time you are using his name to bring him to you for something positive – belly rubs, a hug, food, a game, to go out and have fun. If you primarily call him to you for things that aren't so fun, of course he is going to be less than willing.

Do you call him to you to chastise or punish him? Never do this. If you need to chastise him, go to him and do so. Avoid using his name when telling him off. Instead of saying “Fluffy! Bad Fluffy! Come HERE Fluffy!” use other words – Bad dog, shame on you. Remember, unless you catch your dog actually in the act, punishment afterwards does no good.

What is your tone of voice when calling him? Dogs pay more attention, really, to our tone of voice and body language, than the actual words we use. You don't have to squeak or use baby talk, but try to avoid being overly harsh in your tone. Some dogs won't be so bothered, but many dogs – especially ones with more soft and submissive temperaments, can become nervous if you are too demanding in your overall tone. Relax your posture, even kneel down and adopt a welcoming stance. You want a willing dog! Puppies will come to you happily as long as you are not threatening in any way. If you have an adult dog who may have been treated harshly in his past, he'll need reassurance that being called to his human means Happy and Good feelings.

Some breeds are more distractible than others. Consider what your dog was originally bred for. Terriers and scenting dogs were bred to follow scents, hunt varmints and work independently from their handlers. Jack Russell Terriers and Beagles are often hardwired to put nose to the ground and follow scents and tune out everything around them. Field hunting and herding dogs like Labradors and Collies were developed over centuries to work more closely with humans and be more responsive and attentive to their handlers. Give your dog a little latitude if he is doing what he was bred for doing.

Do you get frustrated when calling your dog 100 times, then act all exasperated when he finally does come? Try to avoid this too. If your dog isn't coming to you despite your yelling his name over and over, then stop doing what isn't working! All you are doing is getting mad, and teaching the dog that there are no consequences for not coming. If you are getting frustrated, your dog is less likely to come - he knows you are mad and the chances of Good and Happy things when he gets to you are diminished!

Training Exercise:

 Get yourself a long leash – about 20' long, for outside. Call the dog to you, preferably not when he is really busy with reading pee-mail or following a rabbit scent. If he doesn't come, immediately reel him in while telling him how fabulous he is. Reward when you get him to you. What are you teaching your dog? That he really has no choice in the matter, and that when he finally does get to you, Good and Happy things happen! Then let him go off again, but keep that leash attached.

Despite being in puppy obedience classes from 12 weeks of age, my dog Cooper thought he really had one over on me when he got to be about 8 months old and realized he could run faster than I could. I'd call him, he'd look at me, go “haha! Come get me!” and run away, thinking this was a great new game. Except, I didn't play it. We started going out to the fields with him trailing his long line, before dinner when he was hungry and me with a pocketful of hot dog bits. I'd call him, he'd go “ha-ha!” and then I'd ruin his game by pulling him to me with the leash. He got a big hug and a treat, then off he could go again. By golly that worked! He was just being a silly teenager and testing his limits.

More Tips for Teaching a Solid Recall

 – bear in mind any exercises involving giving treats to your dog are best done when the dog is hungry.

Hide and seek. If your dog will stay when you walk out of the room, put him in a stay. If not, have another family member hold him. Go hide. Make it challenging. Call your dog, big party and reward when he finds you!
If your dog is off leash on a walk, hide behind a tree or something. Wait for him to notice your absence – if he doesn't, call him and let him find you. Big party and reward when he does!

Whether your dog is on leash or off leash on walks, carry treats or a favorite toy. Get his attention periodically and – you guessed it – big party and reward for attention.

If you call him and he decides to play “keep away” and run from you – don't play his game! Turn and run the other way, while calling him. Most dogs will follow you.

Short daily training sessions with your long line - just a few times daily. Make it a game! Think of training as "structured play."

Finally, always have fun! Dogs are very pragmatic animals. If coming when called is rewarding for them, they'll willingly come. If it's not, they won't. It's really that simple.

~Carina MacDonald